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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.